Introduction: Understanding Artisanal Bread
Artisanal bread refers to bread crafted using traditional methods, minimal ingredients, and often long fermentation periods to develop complex flavors and textures. Unlike mass-produced commercial bread, artisanal bread prioritizes quality ingredients, manual techniques, and time-honored processes. This approach results in breads with distinctive character, superior texture, exceptional flavor, and often better digestibility. The artisanal bread movement represents a return to bread’s ancient roots while incorporating modern understanding of fermentation science.
Baker’s Percentage: The Foundation of Bread Formulas
Understanding Baker’s Percentage
Baker’s percentage is the fundamental calculation system used in bread formulas, where:
- All ingredients are expressed as a percentage of the total flour weight
- Flour is always 100% (the reference ingredient)
- Other ingredients are calculated relative to the flour weight
Example: In a formula with 1000g flour, 700g water, 20g salt, and 10g yeast:
- Flour: 100%
- Water: 70% (700g ÷ 1000g × 100)
- Salt: 2% (20g ÷ 1000g × 100)
- Yeast: 1% (10g ÷ 1000g × 100)
Key Percentage Ranges
| Ingredient | Typical Range | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Flour | 100% (reference) | Structure, starch, protein |
| Water | 60-85% | Hydration, texture development |
| Salt | 1.8-2.2% | Flavor, fermentation control, structure |
| Yeast (commercial) | 0.2-2% | Leavening, fermentation |
| Sourdough Starter | 5-30% | Leavening, flavor development |
| Fat/Oil | 0-15% | Tenderness, shelf life |
| Sugar | 0-8% | Flavor, crust color, food for yeast |
Essential Bread Formulas by Type
Lean Dough Formulas
| Bread Type | Flour | Water | Salt | Yeast/Levain | Special Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| French Baguette | 100% bread flour | 68-75% | 2% | 0.5-1% instant yeast or 15-20% levain | Long fermentation, high-temperature baking |
| Ciabatta | 100% (90% bread/10% whole wheat) | 75-85% | 2% | 0.5% instant yeast | Very wet dough, minimal handling |
| Sourdough Country | 80% bread flour, 20% whole wheat | 70-75% | 2% | 15-25% mature levain | 12-24 hour fermentation, open crumb |
| Focaccia | 100% bread flour | 70-85% | 2-2.5% | 0.5-1% instant yeast | Added olive oil (5-10%), dimpled surface |
Enriched Dough Formulas
| Bread Type | Flour | Water | Salt | Yeast | Enrichments | Special Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Brioche | 100% bread flour | 50-55% | 2% | 1.5-2% instant yeast | Eggs (20-60%), Butter (50-80%), Sugar (8-15%) | Cold fermentation, multiple butter incorporations |
| Challah | 100% bread flour | 50-55% | 1.5-2% | 1-1.5% instant yeast | Eggs (15-30%), Oil (8-15%), Sugar (5-12%) | Egg wash for shine, braided shape |
| Panettone | 100% high-protein flour | 45-55% | 1.8% | 1.5% instant yeast + sourdough culture | Butter (25-30%), Sugar (15-25%), Eggs (15-25%), Dried fruit (40-60%) | Very long fermentation, specialized mixing |
| Milk Bread | 100% bread flour | 40-50% | 1.8-2% | 1-1.5% instant yeast | Milk (20-30%), Butter (5-15%), Sugar (5-10%) | Tangzhong method (5-10% of flour pre-gelatinized) |
Whole Grain Formulas
| Bread Type | Flour | Water | Salt | Yeast/Levain | Special Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Whole Wheat | 100% whole wheat | 75-85% | 2% | 0.5-1% instant yeast or 20-25% levain | Higher hydration compensates for bran absorption |
| Multigrain | 70-80% bread flour, 20-30% whole grains | 75-85% | 2% | 0.5-1% instant yeast or 20% levain | Soaked grains (10-30%), seeds (5-10%) |
| Rye Bread | 50-70% rye flour, 30-50% bread flour | 80-90% | 2% | 15-30% rye sourdough starter | Acidification crucial for crumb stability |
| Spelt Loaf | 100% spelt (or 70% spelt, 30% bread flour) | 70-75% | 1.8-2% | 0.5% instant yeast or 20% levain | Gentle handling due to delicate gluten |
Fermentation Methods and Timelines
Direct Method
- Process: Mix all ingredients together, ferment, shape, proof, bake
- Timeline: 3-5 hours total
- Best for: Simple, quicker breads; commercial yeast formulas
- Formula Adjustment: Standard percentages (as above)
Poolish Method
- Process: Pre-ferment (equal weights flour and water + small amount of yeast) fermented 12-16 hours, then added to final dough
- Poolish Formula: 20-30% of total flour, 100% hydration, 0.1-0.25% instant yeast
- Timeline: 12-16 hours pre-ferment + 3-4 hours final dough process
- Best for: Baguettes, ciabatta, focaccia
- Benefits: Enhanced flavor, improved extensibility
Biga Method
- Process: Stiff pre-ferment (60-65% hydration) fermented 12-18 hours, then added to final dough
- Biga Formula: 30-50% of total flour, 60-65% hydration, 0.1-0.25% instant yeast
- Timeline: 12-18 hours pre-ferment + 3-4 hours final dough process
- Best for: Italian breads, pan loaves
- Benefits: Strength, flavor complexity, extended shelf life
Sourdough/Levain Method
- Process: Cultivated wild yeast starter used for leavening and fermentation
- Levain Build: 1:2:2 or 1:3:3 ratio (starter:water:flour)
- Timeline:
- Starter maintenance: Feed every 12-24 hours
- Levain build: 8-12 hours
- Bulk fermentation: 3-5 hours
- Cold retardation: 8-24 hours
- Total process: 24-48 hours
- Best for: Complex flavor development, traditional methods
- Formula Adjustment: Reduce added water to account for levain hydration
Hydration and Texture Relationships
| Hydration Level | Percentage | Dough Characteristics | Typical Breads | Handling Techniques |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Low | 50-65% | Stiff, tight crumb, easier to shape | Bagels, pretzels, basic sandwich bread | Standard kneading, easy shaping |
| Medium | 65-70% | Balanced, versatile dough | Baguettes, pan loaves, dinner rolls | Fold during fermentation, moderate shaping tension |
| High | 70-80% | Open crumb, more extensible | Ciabatta, focaccia, country loaves | Stretch and fold, minimal handling, bench rest important |
| Very High | 80-100%+ | Extremely wet, challenging to handle | Focaccia, rustic Italian breads, porridge breads | Coil folds, lamination, often contained in forms |
Mixing Methods and Gluten Development
Intensity-Based Methods
| Method | Technique | Gluten Development | Best For | Example Breads |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Short Mix | 3-5 minutes just to incorporate ingredients | Minimal initial development, relies on folding | Artisan breads, high hydration doughs | Sourdough, ciabatta |
| Improved Mix | 5-8 minutes to moderate development | Medium gluten development | Most bread types | Baguettes, country loaves |
| Intensive Mix | 10-15 minutes to full development | Complete gluten development at mixing stage | Enriched or commercial breads | Sandwich bread, brioche |
Specialized Techniques
Autolyse: Resting flour and water (without salt/yeast) for 20-60 minutes before mixing
- Benefits: Reduced mixing time, improved extensibility, better flavor
- Formula adjustment: Hold back salt and yeast during autolyse period
Bassinage: Adding water in stages during mixing
- Benefits: Achieves higher hydration that would be difficult to incorporate all at once
- Technique: Hold back 10-20% of water, add gradually after initial dough development
Lamination: Stretching dough very thin on work surface, then folding
- Benefits: Exceptional strength, organized gluten structure
- Best for: High-hydration doughs, whole grain breads
Shaping Techniques and Formulas
Basic Shaping Principles
- Pre-shape to organize gluten structure
- Bench rest (15-30 minutes) to relax gluten between pre-shape and final shape
- Surface tension development critical for proper oven spring
- Seam alignment appropriate to bread style
Common Shapes and Formula Modifications
| Shape | Weight Range | Hydration Adjustment | Proofing Time | Special Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Boule (round) | 500g-1kg | Standard | 30-60 min at room temp or 8-16 hours refrigerated | Universal shape, works for most formulas |
| Bâtard (oval) | 500g-1kg | Standard | 30-60 min at room temp or 8-16 hours refrigerated | Better crust-to-crumb ratio than boule |
| Baguette | 250-350g | Slightly lower (65-70%) | 30-45 min at room temp | Requires tension and proper scoring technique |
| Pan Loaf | 500g-1kg | Lower (60-68%) | 45-90 min, until cresting pan rim | Formula often includes fat/sugar for soft crumb |
| Freeform Hearth | 500g-1.5kg | Higher (70%+) | 30-60 min at room temp or 8-16 hours refrigerated | Benefits from baking stone and steam |
Baking Parameters and Crust Development
Oven Configurations
| Baking Setup | Temperature | Steam Method | Best For | Adjustment to Formula |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baking Stone | 450-500°F (230-260°C) | Cast iron pan with water/ice | Hearth breads, sourdough | Standard |
| Dutch Oven | 475°F (245°C), lower to 450°F after removing lid | Self-generated from dough | Boules, bâtards | Can handle higher hydration (75-85%) |
| Home Oven | 425-450°F (220-230°C) | Spray bottle, ice cubes | Most breads | Slightly lower hydration (65-72%) |
| Commercial Deck | 450-500°F (230-260°C) | Steam injection | All artisan breads | Standard |
| Convection | Reduce temp by 25°F (15°C) from standard | Pan of water below | Enriched breads, soft crusts | May need slightly lower hydration |
Crust Control Factors
| Desired Crust | Temperature | Steam Duration | Ingredients | Baking Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thick, Rustic | Higher (460-500°F) | First 15-20 minutes | Lean dough, no fat/sugar | Longer (35-45 min) |
| Thin, Crisp | Medium-high (425-450°F) | First 10-15 minutes | Small amount of oil (2-5%) | Medium (25-35 min) |
| Soft, Tender | Lower (375-400°F) | None or very brief | Added fat (5-10%), sugar (5-8%) | Shorter (20-30 min) |
| Chewy | Medium (400-425°F) | Full steam time | High protein flour, overnight refrigeration | Medium-long (30-40 min) |
Common Challenges and Solutions
| Problem | Possible Causes | Formula Adjustments | Process Adjustments |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dense Crumb | Underfermented, insufficient gluten development | Increase hydration by 5%, adjust protein level | Extend bulk fermentation, add strength through folds |
| Uneven Crumb/Large Holes | Improper shaping, uneven fermentation | Standard formula, ensure even incorporation | More careful shaping, gentle handling of fermented dough |
| Poor Oven Spring | Overproofed, weak structure, insufficient steam | Decrease hydration slightly, increase protein | Shorter final proof, better scoring, more steam |
| Gummy Texture | Underproofed, underbaked | Slight decrease in hydration (2-5%) | Longer baking time, proper cooling before cutting |
| Cracking Crust | Rapid cooling, insufficient steam, overproofed | Small increase in fat (1-2%) for softer crust | Proper steaming, full baking time, gradual cooling |
| Collapsing Loaf | Overproofed, insufficient strength | Decrease hydration 5-10%, increase protein | Better gluten development, shorter final proof |
Best Practices and Professional Tips
Precision and Measurement
- Always use weight (grams) rather than volume measurements
- Track ambient temperature and dough temperature (target dough temp: 75-78°F/24-26°C)
- Record time for each stage of fermentation
- Use baker’s percentages for consistent scaling
Fermentation Management
- Final dough temperature (FDT) calculation: Target DDT = (4 × Target) – (Room temp + Flour temp + Friction factor)
- Consider cold fermentation for flavor development (especially 24-72 hours)
- Judge fermentation by dough behavior (volume increase, texture, bubbles), not just time
- Adjust yeast/starter percentages seasonally (less in summer, more in winter)
Formula Scaling and Adaptation
For scaling baker’s percentages to any quantity:
- Determine desired total dough weight
- Sum all percentages in formula (will exceed 100%)
- Divide desired weight by percentage sum
- Multiply result by each ingredient’s percentage to get weights
Example: For a 1000g loaf with formula totaling 172% (100% flour, 70% water, 2% salt):
- 1000g ÷ 172% = 5.81
- Flour: 5.81 × 100% = 581g
- Water: 5.81 × 70% = 407g
- Salt: 5.81 × 2% = 12g
Advanced Mixing Considerations
- Adjust mixing time based on flour protein (higher protein needs longer mixing)
- Consider mixer speed and type (planetary vs. spiral) when following formulas
- For whole grains, extend autolyse to 1-2 hours to fully hydrate bran
- Target specific dough temperatures (see below)
| Bread Type | Ideal Dough Temperature After Mixing |
|---|---|
| Lean/Basic | 75-78°F (24-26°C) |
| Enriched | 75-80°F (24-27°C) |
| Sourdough | 76-80°F (24-27°C) |
| Rye | 80-84°F (27-29°C) |
Resources for Further Learning
Books
- “Bread” by Jeffrey Hamelman
- “Flour Water Salt Yeast” by Ken Forkish
- “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice” by Peter Reinhart
- “Tartine Bread” by Chad Robertson
- “The Rye Baker” by Stanley Ginsberg
Online Resources
- The Fresh Loaf (thefreshloaf.com)
- Bread Science (breadscience.net)
- King Arthur Flour Baking Resources (kingarthurbaking.com)
- Breadtopia (breadtopia.com)
Tools and Equipment
- Digital scale (0.1g precision)
- Dough thermometer
- Bench scraper
- Proofing baskets (banneton)
- Dutch oven or baking stone
- Lame (scoring tool)
Bread Communities
- Sourdough bread organizations
- Local baking classes and workshops
- Instagram bread community (#sourdough, #breadbaking)
- Bread forums and discussion groups